Wines of Cortona
Cortona, a medieval hill town set in the eastern region of Tuscany, is renowned for a variety of enticements, wine production now being one of them. While largely rural, the land is steeped in historical, cultural and artistic tradition, and reveals numerous incentives for wine connoisseur and explorative traveler alike. Lodged between Lake Trasimeno and the Apennine mountains, this locality has evolved over the years from one of regional wine production, to that of blending wine, and onto the formation of elite and fine wines for a global interest.
An active grape-growing area since Etruscan times, Cortona fosters an ideal climate for the cultivation of grapevines with its hot, dry climate and sandy soil. In fact, the municipality has been so successful at wine production over the past few decades, D.O.C. recognition was established in 1999 due to the efforts of the region’s top winegrowers who sought more homogeneous production techniques.
A host of varietals run the gamut from Chardonnay and Riesling to Cabernet, Merlot, Pinot, and other less recognized wines. Those which have demonstrated tremendous success for broad consumption are Sangiovese for red, and Trebbiano for white. However, gaining in popularity is a varietal planted as recently as the late eighties: Syrah, which fares exceptionally well as a result of the climactic conditions. Prized for its full-bodied characteristic and ample berry, spicy and savory notes, Syrah is widely acclaimed the world over, and Cortona Syrahs are now deep in the running.
One of the largest producers of Syrah in Cortona is Tenimenti d’Alessandro, a vineyard which cultivates three distinct Syrahs: Il Bosco, an elite wine which recently garnered a Wine Spectator rating of 95, and which is described as complex and subtle with velvety tannins and layers of blackberry, dark chocolate and coffee; Cortona Syrah D.O.C., an extremely pleasant wine, which consistently obtains ratings in the high 80s; and Migliara, produced by the estate’s finest fruit and carrying aromas of blackberries, anise, and black pepper with highly polished tannins and a very long finish; although still in its infancy, it has secured a 98 rating and has been referred to as “the bomb” by Wine Spectator’s James Suckling.
The real test of Cortona wines are how well they fare with food; after all, eating anywhere in Italy can be a gastronomic event. In Cortona, though the food is quite simple – redolent of earthy and savory elements – the flavors are lush and wonderful, and no dish is complete without a glass of the local vino. With the tremendous variety of wines offered in Cortona, many of the region’s varietals, especially the ever-accommodating Syrahs, pair well with an assortment of local fare, including handmade pasta dishes, meats, wild game, beans, soups, and salads. Even dessert begs a glass or two, which proves that adding to the town’s fertile past and splendid cuisine is its bounty of fine wines.